Apparel Glossary

1x1 Rib   Also 2x2 rib knit trim. The width of each rib is the same as the width between each rib. This helps the garment retain its elasticity.

2-Way Zipper   A zipper with two zipper pulls so that it can be unzipped from either direction.

4-Needle Stitched   Double-Needle stitched but with four stitches.

All-Weather Microfiber   100% Polyester Microfiber with waterproof coating and fully taped seams. 100% waterproof.

Anti-Pill   A treatment applied to garments primarily to resist the formation of little balls on the fabric’s surface due to abrasion during wear.

Argyle   Typically a diamond pattern woven into a garment.

Baby Pique   Very small pique knit. See Pique Knit.

Back Pleats   Tiny folds in the material on the back of a garment that allow for more room and comfort.

Back Yoke   A piece of fabric that connects the back of a garment to the shoulders. This allows the garment to lay flat and drape nicely.

Bartacked   Reinforced stitching; for example, the rivets used on the pockets of jeans.

Basket Weave Knit   process of weaving yarns back and forth resulting in a two-tone appearance.

Birdseye Jacquard   A small geometric pattern with a center dot knit into the fabric.

Blanket Stitch   A decorative stitch used to finish an unhemmed blanket. The stitch can be seen on both sides of the blanket.

Box Pleat   A single, uniform fold in the center back of a garment to allow for more room and comfort.

Brushed Cotton   Cotton fabric that is brushed to remove all the excess lint and fibers from the fabric, leaving an ultra soft, smooth finish.

Button-Through Sleeve Placket   A small placket located on the sleeve, by the cuff, which contains a single button closure.

Cami-Strap   Very narrow shoulder straps.

Casual Microfiber   100% Polyester Microfiber fabric that is water repellent and wind resistant.

Cavalry Twill   A type of Twill Weave (Pattern of the Twill).

Chambray   A dressier fabric woven with white threads across colored threads.

Collarette   The trim around the neck of a t-shirt or sweatshirt.

Combed Cotton   Cotton yarn that has been combed to remove short fibers and straighten or arrange longer fibers in parallel order resulting in a smooth yarn used in finer garments.

Cool Mesh   Similar to a pique knit but with a more open texture for increased breathability. Features a soft hand for better comfort.

Cool Weave   Similar to a pique knit, but with a more open texture for increased breathability. Slightly larger knit than Cool Mesh, it has a denser feel.

Cord Locks   A stopper or toggle on a drawcord that keeps the cord from retracting into the garment.

Coverseamed   A finish in which two needles are used to create parallel rows of visible stitching.It is used around the neck, armholes, waistband, and wrists of garments to create a cleaner, more durable finish.

Denier   A density of the weave in a nylon or polyester product.

Dobby   A decorative weave, usually geometric, that is woven into the fabric.

Double-Needle Stitched   A finish used on a sleeve and/or bottom hem that uses two needles to create parallel rows of visible stitching. It gives the garment a cleaner, more finished look and adds durability.

Drop Needle   A knit fabric characterized by vertical lines within the cloth. Manufactured by "dropping" a needle from the knitting cylinder.

Dry-Fiber   A high activity sportswear fabric that absorbs, wicks and dries faster than average golfwear.

Duck Cloth   Tightly woven fabric that provides wind and snag resistance.

Dyed-To-Match   Buttons or trims that are the same color as the garment onto which they are sewn.

EcoSpun   A fleece outerwear fabric made from at least 50% materials reclaimed from recycled plastic soda pop bottles.

End-on-End   A 2-ply weave of different color yarns that run parallel against each other so that both colors are visible.

Enzyme Washed   A laundering process in which a catalytic substance is added to create a chemical change in the fabric resulting in a very soft finish, smoother appearing surface and reduced shrinkage.

Etched Tone Buttons   A more upscale horn tone button with an etched pattern.

Extended Tail   When the back portion of the garment is longer than the front. Assists in keeping the garment tucked in during normal activity.

Eyelets   Small holes or perforations made in a series to allow for breathability. Finished with either stitching or brass grommets.

Full Cut   Refers to a garment's fit as being generous and roomy.

Garment Dyed   A dyeing process that occurs after the garment is assembled.

Garment Washed   A wash process where softeners are added to finished garments to help the cotton fibers relax or bloom. The result is a fabric with a thicker appearance, reduced shrinkage and a softer hand.

Herringbone   A chevron or zig-zag pattern, knit into fabric.

High Profile   A cap style with a high slope structured with buckram?a stiff fabric lining. Less fitted to the head.

Horn Tone Buttons   Buttons that appear to be manufactured from horn.

Houndstooth   A medium sized broken check effect that is knit into the fabric.

Interlock Knit   A fabric that has two plys knit simultaneously to form one thicker and heavier ply. It has more natural stretch than a jersey knit, a soft hand, and the same appearance and feel on both sides.

Iridescent Buttons   Buttons with a lustrous, rainbow-like hue.

Jacquard Knit   A pattern knit directly into the fabric during the manufacturing process. Typically, 2 or more colors are used.

Jersey Knit   This fabric has a definite smooth side, the outside, and a textured side, the inside.

Lamborder   A flat rib knit, with specified dimensions, that is used to function as a placket and placket facing.

Locker Loop   A looped piece of fabric in the neck of a garment for the convenience of hanging the garment on a hook. Can also be located at the center of the back yoke on the inside or outside of a garment.

Locker Patch   A semi-oval panel sewn into the inside back portion of a garment, just under the collar seam, to reinforce the garment and minimize stretching when hung on a hook. The patch also allows for the garment tag or label to be sewn below the neckline to help prevent irritation.

Low Profile   A cap style with a low slope that is more closely fitted to the head. Can be either structured or unstructured.

Matte Taslan   See Taslan but with a dull finish.

Melange   A mix of different colors of yarns knit together to create a heathered effect.

Mercerized   A product that has gone through a process to produce a smooth, lustrous hand.

Mesh   Similar to a pique knit, but with a more open texture for increased breathability. Larger knit than Cool Weave.

Micro Cord   A very fine wale cord.

Micro Fleece   A high density, anti-pilling fleece made of knit micro-fibers that are brushed less than a regular fleece garment. It has a high capacity for warmth without the weight.

Micro-Stripe   An ultra-fine stripe that is knit into the fabric.

Microfiber   This fabric is tightly woven from a very fine poly thread and has a sueded finish for a luxurious, soft feel. Microfiber fabric is naturally water repellent due to its construction process and when specially treated, can also be waterproof.

Mid Profile   A cap with a slope height in between that of a High Profile and Low Profile. It is most often structured with buckram.

Mother of Pearl Logo Buttons   Buttons made from Mother of Pearl, with a logo inscribed on them.

Nail Head Design   A jacquard knitting pattern in which the jacquard forms a design similar to small nail heads.

Nublend™   The combination of a knitting and spinning process developed by JERZEES® for their blended fleece that helps prevent pilling.

Overdyed   A process in which yarn dyed fabrics or piece dyed garments are put through an additional dye color to create unique colors.

Oxford   A type of fabric where the fibers are either cotton or blended man-made fibers.

Patch Pocket   A pocket attached to the outside of a garment.

Pearlized Buttons   Buttons that have a pearl-colored hue.

Pewter and Horn Tone Buttons   Buttons that incorporate pewter and horn tone, usually one encompasses the other.

Pewter Buttons   Buttons that have a dull, metallic hue.

Pigment Dyed   A type of dye used to create a distressed or washed look.

Pill Free®   A process developed by Lee® to help prevent pilling on fleece garments.

Pique Knit   A knitting method that creates a fine textured surface that appears similar to a birdsnest or waffle weave.

Placket   The part of a shirt or jacket where the garment fastens together.

Poly-filled   A warm polyester lining found in the body or sleeves of outerwear garments. It has more loft than a regular nylon lining.

Polynosic   Features similar characteristics to cotton and silk, has excellent luster and very little shrinkage.

Popcorn Pique   Alternating rows of 2 different pique knits; one knit is a baby pique, while the other is a larger pique that resembles small circles knit closely together.

Poplin   A tightly woven, durable, medium weight cotton or cotton blend fabric made using a rib variation of the plain weave which creates a slight ridge effect.

Print Pro™   A knitting process developed by Hanes® for their fleece garments that creates a tighter knit for a better printing surface.

PVC   A polyurethane coating that is added to make garments water resistant.

R-Tek™ Fleece   100% polyester fleece with an anti-pill finish which prevents the formation of little balls on the surface of the fabric.

Raglan Sleeves   Sleeves set with a diagonal seam from the neck to the armpit.

Rapid Dry   A fabric designed with a unique weave to wick away moisture from the body.

Reverse Placket   See Placket, but reversed for women’s garments.

Rib Knit   A textured knit that has the appearance of vertical lines. It is highly elastic and retains "memory".

Ring Spun Yarn   Yarn made by continuously twisting and thinning a rope of cotton fibers. The twisting makes the short hairs of cotton stand out, resulting in a stronger yarn with a significantly softer hand.

Running Stitch   A stitch that is spaced equally, with the underside stitching being half the length of the external side.

Sandwashed   A washing process in which the fabric is washed with very fine lava rocks or rubber/silicon balls resulting in a softer fabric with a relaxed look and reduced shrinkage.

Sculpted Hem   A hem that is softly rounded for fashion detail.

Self-Fabric Collar   A collar that is constructed from the same material as the body of the garment.

Self-Fabric Sweatband   Refers to headwear where the sweatband is constructed with the same fabric as the crown.

Serge Stitch   An overcasting technique done on the cut edge of the fabric to prevent unraveling.

Side Vents   Slits found at the bottom of side seams. They are fashion details that allow for comfort and ease of movement.

Singles   A term used to indicate the diameter of a yarn; the smaller the number, the thicker the yarn.

Slash Pockets   A pocket that has to be entered through a slash on the outside of the garment. The pocket pouch is suspended from and attached to the slash.

Stonewashed   A washing process in which the fabric or garment is heavily washed with lava rocks or rubber/silicon balls. The result is a softer fabric with a distressed or weathered look and reduced shrinkage.

Storm Flap   A strip of fabric sewn under or over the front zip or snap closure of an outerwear garment to protect against wind and moisture.

Structured   A cap style with a lined front consisting of buckram, a stiff fabric, that controls the slope of the cap.

Sueded Cotton   A fabric that goes through a brushing process to raise the nap and give the garment a soft hand.

Sueded Nylon   See Sueded Cotton.

Taped Seams   A strip of fabric sewn to the seam of a garment to prevent distortion. In outerwear, taped seams aid in waterproofing.

Taslan   Refers to how the fibers are woven and the resulting texture. Used mainly in outerwear garments, Taslan is a durable and water repellent nylon fabric with a slightly shiny surface.

Teklon   A rugged, stronger Taslan nylon that is water repellent.

Tencel   A fabric made from the cellulose found in wood pulp which is processed into a silk-like, delicate fabric.

Terra-Tek™   A durable and water repellent Taslan with a matte finish.

Terry Velour   A type of material with uncut loops on both sides. It has a soft, plush feel and is water absorbent.

Tone on Tone Jacquard Collar   See Jacquard Knit. The two colors being used are the same.

Tricot Lining   A very lightweight nylon lining often used in shorts.

Triple-Needle Stitched   See Double-Needle Stitched but with 3 stitches.

Tubular Collar  Collar which is knit in a tube form so it has no seams.

Tuck Stitch   Refers to the look of the knit where some stitches are actually under the other stitches. Gives the shirt a waffle-weave type texture and look.

Tuck-In Tails   A shirt constructed so the back hem is longer than the front. This aids in keeping the shirt tucked-in during strenuous activities.

Twill   A fabric characterized by micro diagonal ribs producing a soft, smooth finish.

Twill Tape Placket Lining   Twill tape is attached to the inside of the placket for a fashion effect.

Underarm Grommets   Small holes in the armpit area to allow breathability and air circulation.

Unstructured   A low profile cap style with a natural low sloping crown. No buckram has been added to the crown.

V Patch   A section of material in a V shape that is sewn onto a garment directly under the collarette. Can provide support against stretching the neck opening and is also a style component.

Vents, Front & Back   Allow for breathability and may aid in ease of decoration, allowing the garment to be hooped and embroidered with no show-through on the inside of the garment. Some vents are tacked down and are for fashion purposes only.

Waffle Weave/Knit   A waffle, or square pattern, knit or woven into a garment.

Washer Nylon   A nylon garment treated with a special finish to produce a crinkled effect.

Weathered Twill   A special dye process resulting in a softer fabric with a weathered appearance that will continue to enhance with each wash.

Welt Collar and/or Cuffs   A single ply fabric with a finished edge that is used for collars and cuffs on sport shirts and short sleeve garments.

Wood Tone Buttons   Buttons that simulate a wood appearance.

Yarn Dyed   Yarn that has been dyed prior to the weaving or knitting of the garment.